Hot stuff! Several types of chile peppers. |
I’m always surprised to see renditions of Spanish recipes by Americans, both chefs and home cooks, that include chile peppers in one form or another—Mexican salsa, cayenne, jalapeños—whereas, in Spain, the chile is hardly used at all! It’s as if Americans have just gotta have the extra punch of spicy-hot.
Oh, I recognize Russ’s gazpacho—best farmers market tomatoes, olive oil, bread as a thickener. Then he adds harissa, a hot chile paste. Harissa? Really?
Gazpacho with harissa? Try it! |
Spain, of course, “discovered” the chile, capsicum pepper, in the New World and introduced it to the Old World. While the chile found its way into the cuisines of North Africa, India, Southeast Asia, China, in Spain it was the milder versions that left their mark—sweet pimentón (paprika), In Spain, “salsa” means any “sauce,” not the chile-spiked relish that accompanies Mexican-style foods.
Guindillas - dried red chiles. |
Baby eels with garlic and chile. |
Pickled guindillas. |
Guindillas also are the mild green pickled peppers that Basques serve alongside bean dishes or as an aperitif such as the Gilda (guindilla speared on a toothpick with olive and anchovy)..
In my own kitchen, when I want spicy-hot foods, I cook Thai or Indian, maybe Mexican or creole. I keep prepared hot sauce on hand—Tabasco (made in Louisiana), harissa (this brand is made in Tunisia) and sambal oelek (Indonesian, although this brand comes from Holland). Harissa—I call it “Moroccan ketchup”—is really good squeezed on a burger. And, mixed into gazpacho too.
Red Beans, Basque Style
Alubias Rojas a la Vasca
Red beans with chorizo and potatoes are garnished with pickled peppers. |
Serves 4.
1 pound red or pinto beans, washed
Ham bone (optional)
1 large carrot, peeled and cut in chunks
2 bay leaves
1 small green bell pepper, chopped
½ onion, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 leek, chopped
1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut in 1-inch cubes
1 tablespoon salt
¼ pound chorizo sausage
Cooked cabbage (optional)
Sliced red onion (optional)
Guindillas (pickled green chilies)
Put the beans in a soup pot and cover with 6 cups of water. Add the ham bone, if using, carrot, bay leaves, pepper and onion. Bring the water to a boil and add the oil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot and cook for one hour.
Add 1 cup cold water. Cook another 30 minutes.
Add 1 cup cold water. Add the sliced leek, potatoes, salt and chorizo. Bring to a full boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook another 30 minutes, until potatoes are tender.
Serve the beans accompanied by cooked cabbage and onions, as desired, and pickled green chilies.
Green Pepper Relish
I’m growing a few jalapeño plants in big pots this year. They produce more peppers than I can use fresh, so I freeze them in plastic zip bags to use all year round. I used jalapeños and green bell peppers from the garden to make this hot green pepper relish that I first tasted last summer while in Louisiana. It’s piquant, tangy and sweet, goes well with chicken, pork or lamb or as a topping for toasts with cream cheese. (The sugar can be replaced with stevia, a non-caloric sweetener. Use 2 teaspoons white stevia powder for 1 cup of sugar.)
Use rubber gloves to cut up chile peppers to avoid “burning” skin.
Use rubber gloves to cut up chile peppers to avoid “burning” skin.
Green pepper relish. |
10-12 green bell peppers
2-4 jalapeño peppers or other green chile
3 onions
3 cloves garlic
Boiling water
1 ½ cups vinegar
1 ½ cups sugar
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon celery seeds
Remove stems and seeds from peppers and cut into chunks. Peel onions and garlic and coarsely chop onions. Grind peppers, onion and garlic in a food processor. Place the chopped vegetables in a heat-proof bowl and pour over enough boiling water to cover. Allow to soak for 10 minutes. Drain.
Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, mustard seeds and celery seeds in a pan. Bring to a boil. Add the pepper-onion mix and cook for 15 minutes.
Ladle the relish into hot sterile jars and seal. If relish is to be kept, process in a boiling-water bath for 15 minutes. Otherwise, allow to cool, then store the relish in the refrigerator. Keeps up to 2 months.
2-4 jalapeño peppers or other green chile
3 onions
3 cloves garlic
Boiling water
1 ½ cups vinegar
1 ½ cups sugar
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon celery seeds
Remove stems and seeds from peppers and cut into chunks. Peel onions and garlic and coarsely chop onions. Grind peppers, onion and garlic in a food processor. Place the chopped vegetables in a heat-proof bowl and pour over enough boiling water to cover. Allow to soak for 10 minutes. Drain.
Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, mustard seeds and celery seeds in a pan. Bring to a boil. Add the pepper-onion mix and cook for 15 minutes.
Ladle the relish into hot sterile jars and seal. If relish is to be kept, process in a boiling-water bath for 15 minutes. Otherwise, allow to cool, then store the relish in the refrigerator. Keeps up to 2 months.
Spread cream cheese on mini-toasts, top with spoonful of green pepper relish. Sprinkle with pimentón picante (hot paprika). |
Guindillas rojas - fresh red chiles. |
I'm not sure how I'll use those fresh red chiles. Maybe try a fermented hot sauce, or maybe thread them on string and let them dry. One year, I garlanded the Christmas tree with brilliant red chiles.